Even when using an S. Matheson handkerchief as a pocket square in a sportcoat or tuxedo (which adds quite a bit of color, style and class), there are still no strict rules. You may, however, loosely follow the traditional folding patterns outlined here.
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The Square-Ended Fold
Classic, subtle and subdued.
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The Puffed Fold
A bit flashier, with more color.
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The Triangle Fold
Refined and elegant.
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The Multi-Pointed Fold
Perhaps the most popular.
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